Cappadocia

With only eight days in Turkey we had to choose between Ephesus and Cappadocia.  Since I’d just spent some time in Paris, I voted for nature over culture.  Unfortunately our flight on New Year’s Day was canceled, but the friendly folks at Turkish Airways managed to get us to a nearby town three hours later.

We stayed in Goreme at a wonderful little hotel (Guven Cave Hotel) in which all of the rooms were either caves or made of carved stone.  We chose the castle-like arch room over the dungeon-like cave.  The owner, Mustafa, was incredibly friendly and helped us to plan our entire trip the first night.  His right hand man, Jihan (below), then made sure that every day of our stay was pleasant.

Mom convinced me to take a balloon ride the first morning.  It was ridiculously expensive, horrifying for the first few seconds, and then one of the best hours of my life.  It was so peaceful and beautiful in the air.  The pilot had amazing control over the balloon and was able to slip into canyons like he was threading a needle.  The strong winds resulted in a bit of a crash landing (“crash positions everyone”), but then he was able to gently lift the balloon and set it down on the trailer.  Most people I know can’t park a car as easily or accurately as he parked that balloon basket.

 

 

 

 

The mountains, rock formations and caves were fascinating.  I particularly liked the paintings (some dating back to 900) in the various cave churches.  Many had been defaced, but some were in amazing condition.

 

We also visited one of the underground cities (nothing like climbing down a very narrow stairway 200 feet underground to flare up the old claustrophobia), and hiked a beautiful canyon.  At the beginning of the hike the guide said we wouldn’t have time to stop for photos.  Hah!  Mom and I just let the rest of the group race on ahead and enjoyed our walk.

 

We also saw Alvalos, the capital of pottery.  There's a sandbar in the middle of the river covered in clay pots and ducks.  There's a story there, but I'm not sure what it is.  While there, we ate lunch in a women's cooperative.  You just walk into the kitchen, see what they made that looks good to you, and point. 

Oh, and no visit to Turkey could be complete without a few visits to the baths.  I have now been pummeled in public by a hairy, fat Turkish man.  Life doesn’t get any better than that.  Well, maybe the hot rock massage by a much cuter massage therapist that followed was more to my liking. 

And the food.  Each meal better than the last.  My favorite dessert was the rice pudding, which was so unlike the lumpy paste we get at home.  This was cooked in individual clay pots, with a crusty top and creamy bliss inside.  I bought a set of the pots so that I can spend the rest of my life trying to figure out how to make it.  I have a mission.

Writing this makes me want to go on-line now and book a return trip in April.  Turkey, I will be back. 

p.s.  I didn't need a doll.  I didn't want a doll.  But I bought a doll so I wouldn't feel guilty about taking this woman's picture.